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Gerber Gator Sawback Machete 18" Carbon Steel Blade, Tactile Rubber Grip (31-000758)

Customer Reviews 3.778 Read 9 reviewsWrite a Review
Part Number: GB31000758
Manufacturer: Gerber Knives and Gear
Retail Price: $29.95
Our Price:
$17.95
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Description
GB31000758: Gator Machete
Gerber

The Gator Machete wields a 15 inch fine edge blade on one side, a 18 inch high performance saw blade on the other, and our proprietary Gator rubber grip for ergonomic control while using either. The riveted, nylon sheath provides safe, durable transport.
Features
  • Tactile rubber grip
  • Fine edge and saw blade
  • Riveted, nylon sheath included
Specifications
  • Overall Length: 25.7"
  • Blade Length: 18" (15" Fine Edge / 18" Saw Edge)
  • Weight: 18 0z.
  • Head: High Carbon Steel
  • Handle: High Carbon Steel
  • Handle: Gator-Grip

UPC Code: 013658120327

Nylon Sheath
Nylon Sheath
Durable, flexible, abrasion and mildew resistant, and high strength.
Zytel Handles
Zytel Handles
A nylon polymer that is lightweight and extremely durable, Zytel can be shaped and textured to provide excellent grip.
3.778 (9 reviews)
3.8 out of 5 stars
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1 out of 5
Chris W
Longview Texas
Aug 26, 2014
Pros: Weight, None
Cons: Sheath/Scabbard, Materials, Handle Material, Overall Quality
Worthless
I tried to use this thing to clear some brush. Turns out it's not good for that. The sheath is terrible too. Way too big. Waste of money. My Cold Steel gladius machete puts this thing to shame.
5 out of 5
Michael
Virginia
Jul 05, 2014
Pros: Sheath/Scabbard, Handle Material, Materials, Blade Material, Weight, Overall Quality, Finish
Cons: Sheath/Scabbard, Blade Material, None
5 Years of Abuse
I've owned this machete for about 5 years (Maybe 4 1/2) and have abused the hell out of it. It keeps an edge pretty well for the type of steel that it is. It has a reasonable amount of flex to it, so it's pretty forgiving. I have put the blade in my vise and bent it at about a 45 degree angle, and it just sprang right back to normal. The saw back works surprisingly well for what it is. If you need to cut a big tree down or something then get an actual saw or and axe, but to make the last cut when you're chopping down a small tree it works just fine. Whenever I go back in the woods I take it. If you're thinking about buying it keep in mind that the total length is something like 2 feet, I'm over 6 feet tall and it is still awkward to keep on my hip. I keep mine on my backpack or just carry the sheath in my hand. The grip is held to the blade with 2 bolts, the tang goes about half way through the grip, considering the length of the grip that is still a lot of metal holding it on. The grip is pretty comfortable, but I still recommend wearing gloves to absorb shock if you're going to be cutting trees with it. I actually use paraffin wax (candle wax) as opposed to oil on the blade because when you're cutting bush for a couple of hours I've found that the oil doesn't stay on, the wax does though. I keep the edge at a 20 - 25 degree angle on the straight part of the blade and a 35 degree angle on the curved part. Make sure to keep a file with you.
1 out of 5
Scott
Lansing, MI
Jan 29, 2014
Pros: Handle Material, Weight, Sheath/Scabbard, None
Cons: Overall Quality, Blade Material, Blade Sharpness
Has NOBODY NOTICED!
Those who have rated this as excellent for "Sawing" haven't experienced a real saw. Take a look at each individual tooth. Every other one is bent outward in the opposite direction... this is called Kerf. This is good, it creates a wider cut than the actual thickness of the blade. BUT, the saw teeth on this are only sharp on ONE SIDE (side opposite the Logo). This saw blade was stamped out of a blank, and the stamp created "relief" on every tooth and on the same side. So when the teeth were offset to create the Kerf, it leaves every other tooth that will just rub the wood. Having "relief" (typically 15 degrees) on ANY cutting tool is what creates the sharp edge to cut. But having relief on a hand saw is crucial because of the wasted energy of the saw cutting on one side while rubbing on the other. This leads to the second problem... the tip of every tooth should be ground with relief angling down and towards the front, so the saw cuts more when pulling back towards yourself. (Just compare this "saw" to a circular blade or a Saws-All blade, you see the difference immediately)
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